La fête du Beaujolais Nouveau, 2004

Gamay is one of those neglected wine grapes that does not get much respect. Light bodied, fruity, and high acidity, the most famous incarnation of this grape can be found in Beaujolais Nouveau from the Beaujolais region of France. For a lightly fermented grape juice, it really is more of a testament to the power of marketing and the tendency of the consumer society to seize on a good party - each year's Beaujolais Nouveau are released worldwide at the strike of midnight on the third Thursday in November under the watchful eyes of the waiting patrons.

For this release, it is November 18, 2004.




Of course, on a personal level, the real attraction is the fact that Café Fanny and Kermit Lynch throw a heck of a Beaujolais Nouveau party on the Saturday following the release. Kermit Lynch is a redoubtable, if controversial, American wine merchants worth a visit because of the wines they carry and the friendly service. Café Fanny is a little gem of Berkeley serving excellent food using mostly organic ingredients and is part the culinary empire started by Alice Water.

In the small parking lot in front of Café Fanny and Kermit Lynch, a large tent is pitched with chairs and tables. People of all stripes, it is Berkeley after all, can be seen sitting next to each other enjoy the food, wine, and company. An accordionist plays music ranging from French chanson to Argentine tango accompany the line of people snaking around the block to get a plate of food and a glass of wine. With a slightly chilled air and bright sun overhead, it is a small piece of the illusory paradise that we should all escape to sometimes.




The Café Fanny stall served a freshly made sausage using a blend of spices that was as good to eat as it smelt on the grill for the 2003 event. I have been dreaming about the sausage for a year. This longing is not to be sated because sausage was served in another event a few weeks ago. So, I have to make do with rich and fragrant lamb stew made with lots of herbs and spice. The Beaujolais Nouveau is a bit darker this year but offers a crispy acidity with a nice fruity nose to make it a well balanced wine. And, whether accompanied by a piece of lamb or a piece of bread soaked in stew juice, the wine and food compliment each other with grace.

Now, a bit of dirt on the event. The Café Fanny crew for the event was fairly green and the initial servings of the lamb stew were in the supersized portion. It was a great deal for the lucky ones who came to the event early, but, for the latecomers, there was more stew juice than the stew.

So, mark your calendar, wherever you are, for November 17th, 2005. The next batch of the lightly fermented, acidic, and very fruity Gamay juice will be waiting. As for me, I hope they serve sausage on the 19th.




Beaujolais
www.beaujolais.com

Café Fanny
1603 San Pablo Ave
Berkeley, CA 94702
T: 510 524-5447
cafefanny.citysearch.com
Hours: Mon-Fri 7:00am- 3:00pm, Sat 8:00am- 4:00pm, Sun 8:00am- 3:00pm

Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
1605 San Pablo Ave
Berkeley, CA 94702
T: 510-524-1524

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