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Global Corners Copyright 2005

Notes on food and travel around the world by the Global Corners team.

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Wednesday, December 22, 2004



Rating chocolates and chocolate ratings 2004



(Seve)


For each shop visited, a box of freshly made dark chocolate are tasted and rated on the following independent dimensions: texture, aroma, balance, and intensity plus an overall impression where five is the best possible score with three being the average, defined as a Valrhona equivalent. While each chocolate is rated based on its own type, since it makes no sense to compare the texture dimension between praline and ganache, only the composite score is tabulated and noted. Like all ratings, these contain a good deal of taster bias and idiosyncrasies, despite rudimentary statistical techniques to minimize the impacts, and should be used with these issues in mind.




A quick note on terminologies for the ratings
  • Bonbons: chocolate candies
  • Couverture: chocolate or, specifically used in these rating, the chocolate coating on the bonbons
  • Fourrage: filling/heart of bonbons
  • Ganache: fourrage made with chocolate, cream, and infusion of flavors
  • Praline: fourrage made with crushed, carmelized nuts




    Tasting Notes

    Les 5 Tablettes
  • Jean-Paul Hévin: beautiful bonbons, lousy tea (service)


  • Les 4 Tablettes
  • Christian Constant: a thoughtful poet of chocolates and maker of pastry with precision


  • Gérard Mulot: the ultimate neighborhood chocolate shop


  • Jouvaud: how to bribe a kid


  • Pierre Hermé: pastry and chocolate as an exuberant art


  • Sève: how to bribe an adult


  • Vincent Dallet and Near Misses: Au Parrain Genereux and Terroir: sometimes, being there is more important than having the numbers


  • Les 3 Tablettes
  • Pralus: must have been a bad day


  • Joel Durand: crunching away without couverture





  • No rating
  • Puyricard: conspiracy theories abound


  • Not Rated
  • Valrhona: not sure who is more insulted, McDonalds or Valrhona



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